The Magic Power of the Highest Altitude Lake

Kompas/Bahana Patria Gupta

The Tanah Papua expedition team saw the diversity of plants around Lake Habema in the Lorentz National Park area, Jayawijaya Regency, Saturday (11/13/2021).

Birds chirping cut the silence as the night fell at Lake Habema, Jayawijaya regency, Papua. The moonlight got reflected on the surface of the lake which was at an altitude of 3,200 meters above sea level.

This was our second night at Lake Habema in the Papua Expedition series. On a hill on the north side of the lake, we pitched the tent that became our “home” for the past two days. It’s an opportunity to experience and know Lorentz National Park.

Lake Habema, located in the Sub-Alpine zone, is one of the main attractions in Lorentz National Park. This 224-hectare lake holds the title as the highest altitude lake in Indonesia and is famous for its cold weather.

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Approaching midnight, on Saturday (11/13/2021), the temperature was getting colder. The temperature gauge showed a range of 10 degrees Celsius, but it felt colder than what was displayed. Two layers of jackets had not been able to dispel the cold.

The bonfire helped warm us. Dasilvira (38), a forest ranger from the Lorentz National Park Center, hugged his knees in front of the bonfire which was getting dimmer. A cup of coffee was a loyal friend.

When the coffee was cold, the aluminum cup was placed over the coals to keep it warm again.

"Several tribes around Jayawijaya call this lake Yuginopa, or a lake that is like a woman and a man," said Dasil, his nickname. “If the weather is fine, we can see clusters of galaxies, with a lake in the background, and Mount Trikora in the background. But, that's how it is in nature, we can't predict the weather,” he added while sipping his coffee.

After years of service, they are familiar with this area.

Dasil, along with two of his fellow Lorentz National Park employees, Amandus and Zakarias, accompanied us to stay at Lake Habema and see first-hand the biodiversity of this lake. After years of service, they are familiar with this area.

However, as the night fell toward the morning. Dasil and his partner took their leave and shuffled into the tent, unable to resist the cold and drowsiness. So did we, who rushed into the tent and snuggled into sleeping bags.

Kompas/Bahana Patria Gupta

Several appeals to protect forests in the Lorentz National Park area, Jayawijaya Regency, Friday (12/11/2021).

When morning came, the mist still lingered around Lake Habema, which lay majestically at the foot of the Trikora Mountains. The tent was wet with dew. The smell of wet earth and mountain breeze filled the air.

As the morning grew, the green and brown trees became clear on the shores of the lake. The still water looked like a giant mirror, with the fog still thick above it. Lake Habema showed all its curves of beauty. A magical sight that never ceases to amaze.

A group of noso ducks (Anas waigiuensis), one of the endemic animals in this area, happily were playing in the lake. Every now and then they flew tens of meters, before returning to land on the surface of the lake.

Risky

Only our tent could be seen at Lake Habema that day. Many were reluctant to stay at Habema because of security considerations. "In fact, it's very beautiful here, interesting. But it's risky, so very few people come. I have been in Wamena for 10 years and have just stayed here for the first time,” said Chaerul Iman (32), the warden who took us around Wamena.

Even though Chaerul had taken guests to Lake Habema several times, only then did he feel that he was staying by the lake. Usually, he left early in the morning and returned before dark. The security conditions worried him.

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The security threat in the Central Highlands of Papua is unavoidable. Moreover, this area belongs to the “red” zone, a zone where gunfights between the military and armed criminal groups often occur. To decide to stay at this lake, you need to be careful. "If someone stops by, don't forget to give them cigarettes or food," warns Amandus.

To reach Habema, we had to fly first from Sentani Jayapura Airport to Wamena Jayawijaya Airport. Unlike other areas that require rapid antigen testing related to the Covid-19 pandemic, we have to perform a nasopharyngeal and oropharynx swab test. This condition is set by the Jayawijaya regency administration for anyone who wants to enter this area by air travel.

However, the path is uphill and part of the road is still rocky soil, so the vehicle must be capable in extreme terrain.

From Wamena, the capital of Jayawijaya, where the riots occurred in 2019, the journey to Habema begins. We had to rent a four-wheel drive vehicle even though most of the roads were smooth. The construction of the 48-kilometer Trans-Papua route to this lake has been completed. However, the path is uphill and part of the road is still rocky soil, so the vehicle must be capable in extreme terrain.

Biodiversity

Lake Habema is like a giant pearl in the central mountainous area of Papua. Besides noso ducks, the lake area is also a habitat for the beautiful honeysucking bird. This bird species has a jet black color similar to a crow. It has wattles in its bright yellow eyes and bright yellow patches on its wings.

Kompas/Bahana Patria Gupta

The Tanah Papua expedition team around Lake Habema in the Lorentz National Park area, Jayawijaya Regency, Saturday (11/13/2021).

This area is also the habitat of Canis lupus dingo. The dingo is a coyote that roars like a wolf. Its presence is spotted around Habema.

The name of this lake itself comes from a Dutch military detachment officer, Lieutenant D. Habbema. He escorted the expedition led by Hendrikus Albertus Lorentz in the area in 1909. The expedition was aimed at reaching the Trikora Peak or what was formerly known as Wilhelmina Peak.

Head of Lorentz National Park Center, Acha Anis Sokoy, said that only a small part of Lorentz's biodiversity has been revealed. He even estimates that the known biological wealth in Lorentz is only a maximum of 40 percent.

"You don’t have to go very far, we don't even know the depths of Lake Habema yet. And this is only one part of the wealth of Lorentz National Park, which covers an area of 2.3 million hectares, with the most complete ecosystem, from the sea to the highest mountain in Indonesia," said Acha.

(This article was translated by Kurniawan Siswo).